Soaring architecture, smooth jazz and raw blues,lakeside food festivals, cutting-edge galleries, innovative theater - welcome to Chicago. Whether you want to tip back cocktails at AI Capone's favorite nightclub or ponder Art Institute masterworks, this smart, street-wise and stylish guide will put you in the Loop (...and the rest of Chicago).

The trumpeter"s cheeks look like they"re about to explode. You"re in an overheated, matchbox-sized nightclub on the city"s South Side, watch-ing an unknown horn player rewrite the rules of jazz in sweat and noise. The tune is familiar,but the treatment is revelatory. Explosive. The crowd screams their approval, and you scream right along with them. The night is young, your face is flushed and you have a sneaking suspicion that you may have to reschedule tomorrow"s Sam pancake breakfast.

Introducing Chicago

City Life

Arts

Architecture

History

Neighborhoods

Walking Tours

Eating

Drinking

Entertainment

Sports, Health & Fitness

Shopping

Sleeping

Excursions

Directory

Behind the Scenes

Index

Map Section